Katara Costume Pajamas from Avatar the Last Airbender

My oldest wanted a Halloween costume as Katara from Avatar the Last Airbender, but this last Halloween was not the best time for it- (not that Christmas time is much better!)  I bought a pajama pattern to use to make it and ended up not even opening it.

Finished

First, I found a dress and shirt that I knew fit her well and used them as the base for the pattern. I allowed extra room around the chest and waist since these are pj's and she is very particular about comfort.

Pattern like I want it to look before adding seam allowances and pattern pieces

I drew with rulers and careful hand the entire layout of the dress. Then I folded it down the center and made sure it was symmetrical (change drawing/trim to even out).

Paper placed over Pattern and traced to make smaller pieces of the pattern.

Next, I put the tracing paper over the full drawn dress and made each piece by tracing and adding seam allowances.

 Always remember to do seam allowances if you make a pattern!

Close-up to pattern pieces

Purple pieces

White trim pieces

Cut and Ready to Sew

Cut and place on the appropriate fabrics and cut and sew!  If you have a basic knowledge of how a garment is pieced together, you should be fine.  This one didn't have sleeves! Yea! That's the beauty of making your own patterns- you make them as simple as you want.

She loves wearing this to bed, and it looks so cute on her!

Easy Pioneer Trek Skirt Instructions DIY

My aunt needed a couple of trek skirts for the stake youth conference coming up, but they were for unspecified young women.  I have no idea the height or weight of the girls, so I had brain storm an idea so that it would fit anyone or most anyone AND look a little attractive so that they would wear it.

Here is the pattern I came up with.  It has a waistband in the front and a drawstring/tie back.  The back half extends to 40 inches in length from one side of the front to the other.  The front is about 14.5 inches across.  That is about 54 inches, give or take for the waist expansion.

I used a Full Size Bed Sheet.  I used the top and bottom edges for the hems of the skirt.  The + 2.5" hem is the extra length needed if you are NOT using a bed sheet.  I made 2 skirts- one for a 5'8" girl and another for a 5'4" girl out of one bed sheet with a little extra leftover.  I apologize if these are confusing patterns or instructions- someone with a little knowledge of basic construction should do okay with it.  Most of the 'how to' is with pictures.  If you need clarification, just let me know!

Here are the measurements and instructions

Tag Turtle Toy for Babies

Here is a 'tag toy' I made for a cousin's baby out of my mother's scrap polyester knits, ribbon, and batting. It was way easy especially since I left the raw edge out. You can get away with that with double knit polyester! I also used a straight 'stretch' stitch to make sure the ribbons and head were secure. It's about 6 inches long tongue to tail.

http://www.idealeon.com

How to Make a Children's Elf Cape

This fits kids sizes 4-5.

I've been admiring the sweater elf dress/coats on Etsy. I don't know when I will be able to try to make one. I also have seen my daughter use an off-center skirt (longer on one side than the other) as a poncho on her shoulders. I thought about making an 'off-center' circle cape on purpose for my kids, and this is what became of it.

Here is a basic guide to make it:

The fabric I have used is about 54"wide lightweight knit. I folded the fabric so that there were 4 layers. After making the circle and cutting, I opened it an cut an 'off-center circle large enough for a neck and seam allowances.

Here is a trick for making a circle: Tie a sewing marker to the end of the cord. Measure the length of the skirt you need, allowing for waistbands, etc. from the point of the marker. Hold it at the central point (corner of double folded fabric) and carefully draw across the fabric keeping it tight and upright. It's a simple compass!

I used the extra better-looking scraps from around the circle as a hood. (I was looking a book once about medieval clothing construction one time and it suggested that the tailors used the leftovers from around the circle to make the dramatic long-pointed drop of the sleeves. Maybe they did this for their cool hood-capes.)

Make sure to sew large side to pointy side of the hood.

Fold the selvage front edge of the hood to the 'right' side, sew, and cover with lace.

Finished Hood. Yes, it looks a little tall, but that will make it look more romantic.

Cut a slit in the front to allow the head to come through along the grain of the fabric. Fold to right side and use a zigzag stitch to cover the raw edge, and to finish the middle of it. Cover with lace.

Use long stitch and make 2 rows of stitching along collar edge to gather. Gather it until it is the same length as the hood bottom. Pin with lots of pins.

HINT: Maybe everyone does this, but sew between the 2 rows of gather-stitching; it prevents as many folds being sewn down. Top stitch or trim excess if you like.

Sew lace on bottom using a zigzag or creative wide stitch, covering raw edge under lace about midway. Superfast and easy!

Grab the little kid and have them model it!

idealeon

Sewing Small Circles on a Ladybug Pattern

If you haven't seen these before, you can purchase an inexpensive pattern to make one yourself here.  Here's  a tip on how to sew those small little dots on with a satin stitch that actually looks good.

If you want to make one from my pattern you can find it here.

First off, pin the dots where you want them. My first thought is to use a baste stitch, or a long stitch (length 4), but it is actually less secure for when you use the satin stitching. Use a normal stitch length (2-3) and sew very close to the raw edge of the dot- See Below Picture. (If you want extra secure dots, use 'wonder-under' or other double sided fusible interfacing.)

Use the side wheel to hand 'crank each stitch so that it doesn't veer off the curve, pivoting the fabric every 3 or so stitches.

For the Satin Stitching, use Zig Zag stitch with a length at about 0.5 or near 0. Keep your hand on the wheel to pivot it every 3 or so stitches so it has a uniform look to it- Otherwise it will look more like polygon. If you want it to look really good, patience is the key.

For the more confident seamstress, just slowly sew using both hands to constantly pivot to make the curve. I admit, I wasn't as patient as I could have been while making this ladybug. I think the next one is the one I will list in my etsy shop.

Idealeon

Simple Brown Skirt Tutorial

So about 7 years ago I had a brown skirt that I would wear all the time. It used to be my mother's. One day I was cutting out some fabric while wearing the skirt. Yes, I was dumb and careless and cut a nice big 5 inch cut into my skirt because part of it was underneath the fabric somehow. I was so mad at myself for doing something so dumb! I've wanted to make another brown skirt for a while. I've had the fabric sitting and waiting for at least 3 or more years. Other projects always took priority until last week. I finally made it! It was very easy and simple. I love easy stuff.

I used a 54 inch wide lightweight polyester/spandex knit (stretchy) material for this skirt- exactly the type I use for my nursing shawls that I sell on etsy!

First, I measured about the length I wanted it on me. Next, my waist and 'halfed' it, adding seam allowances and an extra couple inches. The fabric is folded in half with selvages on either side. I used the measuring tape to make a curve on the corner, made marks with chalk. Next, I used the measuring tape as a compass, holding the end at the corner, and holding the chalk and the tape at the point of the waist measurements. I made more exact curve/waist markings pulling the tape side to side (see photo above.) Add the length of the corner to the waist to the length of the skirt you want and do the same 'compass' technique to mark the hem of the skirt. Cut.

Next, I measured out about 5 inches wide and a generous length for the waistband (about 4 inches longer than I thought I would need.) I will use 1 inch wide elastic. Sew right sides together at 1/4 inch seam allowance(my favorite size- I really like to conserve fabric, and I was going to trim it off to that size anyway...). Trim of extra length of waistband.

Pin right sides of back seam together, matching waistband seams. Stitch using a straight stretch stitch. Say that ten times really fast.

Pull the fabric with both hands as you stitch this back seam to prevent 'bunching' of the seam. (I know you might have heard that you should never pull fabric through when you sew, but you are not pulling it through the foot faster, you are only stretching the fabric!) See photo below.

(See Below picture) Fold the waistband over to the inside and pin, matching seams. Leave a 1 to 2 inch gap for elastic. Have the outside/right side showing when you stitch. Use a decorative stretch stitch. (This hides any imperfections if you don't sew straight!) Make sure the waistband has been sewn down. I had to go back and redo about 3-4 inches that didn't get connected (I hardly ever pin anything unless I have to match up seams.)

Put the elastic around your waist to your comfort and mark with chalk or pin or marker. Use a large safety pin to pull the elastic through. Pin it at the point you think will fit and try it on. If it is good, cut, making sure you've left the space to connect it. Sew the waistband space closed.

Try on the skirt to make sure that the hem is even. Trim to adjust as necessary. To finish the hem, fold over and sew down at edge. I never pin because it would make the stitch look crooked. It is about 3/8 inch double fold. Pull the fabric a little as you do this to make sure there isn't a 'buckling' or 'crumpled' look at the bottom. You are finally done! Good luck!

Idealeon

How to Make a Pillow Case Nightgown

What is the traditional present that everyone opens on Christmas Eve? Pajamas. Here is a tutorial on how to make a pillowcase nightgown from fabric, not a pillowcase, for your kids, grand kids, niece, or anyone! Use holiday fabric or just her favorite licensed design.

Materials needed for size 10-12 girls:

• 1 yard 45"(or wider) or 1 1/2 yard 44" fabric for body
• 8" of 45" or wider fabric for top edge
• thread
• 1 yard 1/2" wide elastic OR 1 1/2 yards ribbon.

This shape is so simple, adjusting to make larger or smaller sizes is very simple. Add/subtract 1/2" or so for each size larger or smaller, taking into account height.

Finished garment

measurements are:

34"long

22"across

8"armhole length

Fits a size 10/12 girl.

1)I found a piece of fabric that looked like it would fit my daughter well- make sure there is space for the body AND the arms to go through.

2)I cut a rectangle out of the folded fabric.

22 1/8"x33 5/8" you can round up or down.

(44 1/4"x 33 5/8" unfolded fabric measurement)

3)I found another fabric to add to the top as the casing for the elastic. You can use ribbon or cord, too. I put it next to the length of the first peice to match the length and folded edge next to folded edge and then cut it to allow for the width of the elastic with 'gathering space' x2 and then add 1/2" seam allowance.

(I only use 1/4" seam allowances- if you are not experienced in sewing I recommend you use the standard 5/8" s.a. Added up it would be 1 1/4" s.a. onto the width of the casing, not 1/2".)

My elastic is 1/2" wide. My casing is 2 1/4". I allowed a lot of gathering space.

4)Sew 'right sides together'.

5)Iron upwards toward casing.

6)Turn under raw edge of casing 1/4"if this is the size of s.a., or 5/8" if that is the s.a. you are working with. Stitch.

7)Mark your armhole length down the sides. Fold your s.a. around armhole and iron. Stitch. Stitch side seam.

*On the folded side of gown, mark the line to cut down the side from the top. Fold over about 1/4" around armhole and use a wide sitch (zig-zag) to 'enclose' the raw edge.

I forgot to do this step BEFORE sewing the casing down. Boy, that was annoying!

8)Fold the casing in half and pin.

9)Stitch next to edge. (HINT: I use a wide decorative stretch stitch because it hides imperfections in stitching straight.)

10)Finish the bottom by folding it 1/4" and folding it one more 1/4" so it is rolled inside its self. Pin if necessary or just stitch as you roll.

11)Use a safety pin to move the elastic or ribbon through the front and back casing. You may want to put 2 ribbons through so you can tie them at the shoulders to look cute, but my experience is that they quickly come untied.

12)Keep the elastic 'too long' until you fit it. Add length to overlap elastic and cut. Add cute decorations, flower shapes, pockets, anything you want- just make sure it's still comfortable to sleep in!

Here is another great tutorial on how to make an 'Elf Cape'. It uses simple shapes. It fits 4t to size 10 girls. Imagine using green knit and faux fur edging around the hood... Perfect for your little elf!